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Download PDF Chasing Waves: A Surfers Tale of Obsessive Wandering

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Anyone who has ever longed for a daring diversion from day job and doldrums will connect with these tales of wanderlust, vagabonding, and riding the surf.

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Paperback , pages. Published April 15th by Mountaineers Books first published April To see what your friends thought of this book, please sign up. To ask other readers questions about Chasing Waves , please sign up. Lists with This Book. Apr 06, Audrey rated it it was ok Shelves: I knew we were onto something good when we passed a disquieting bit of voodoo--a molding cloth doll with fraying yellow yarn hair and no eyes nailed through the head to a baby fir tree. The path was lined with salal shrubs, ferns, the occasional spiky devil's club, salmonberries, and a mixed canopy of alder, fir, and huge cedar.

When I first heard the surf, filtering through the thicket, my heartbeat quickened. A collection of Waeschle's musings about learning to surf around the world. A I knew we were onto something good when we passed a disquieting bit of voodoo--a molding cloth doll with fraying yellow yarn hair and no eyes nailed through the head to a baby fir tree. Amy Waeschle is a good travel writer. Each of her pieces are detailed and personal, and she's got a knack for bringing exotic locales to life with vivid natural description.

Her style is breezy and conversational " The minute I began paddling [my heart began: I imagined it crying out to the other organs, 'Get out now! But the sum of these things does not a great book make. The problem is simply too much of a decent thing. Taken individually, each piece provides a sun-soaked glimpse into a woman's journey to master the art of surfing. And I mention gender here explicitly because a lot Waeschle's pieces center on emotions and experiences I've heard from other outdoor adventuring women: But the recounting of these experiences, while they struck a sympathetic nerve--at least with me--lose their punch after pages.

Yup, she's still learning to surf. Yup, things go wrong when you travel. Yup, it's kind of tough but thrilling when it goes well.

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And I still had another hundred pages to go. There are a couple of standout pieces, namely the two set in Costa Rica, "Why Boyfriends Make Terrible Surf Instructors" and "How to Surf Your Brains Out in Costa Rica", which seems to be the place Waeschle loved the most, and perhaps not coincidentally where she learned the most, both about surfing and about group expeditions. But overall, the collection is largely forgettable.

They're nice, sunny pieces about surfing, but there's no burning passion, no hardship and overcoming, no true adventure. Which is why the last piece in the book, "And Baby Makes Three", blew me away. It's the only piece that focuses on Waeschle's struggles to maintain her itinerant surfing lifestyle with her newborn daughter in tow. In the piece, Waeschle and her husband take turns surfing and watching the baby in Portugal, and there's this genuine, lynchpin moment where Waeschle returns from a set of truly mind-blowing waves to find her baby daughter screaming and her husband staring shell-shocked off into the middle distance.

It turns out she'd been gone for five hours. That one moment of realization, such a vivid example of how the weight of responsibility has shifted, is what's missing from the rest of the book.

Daring Rescues by Amy Waeschle! – ogozoqosolym.tk

Each essay, while prettily written, contains no other crystalline moment of transformation and concomitant analysis. But because of that last piece now I'm dying to find out if she's still surfing.


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And if she's planning on teaching her daughter. May 15, Margot rated it it was amazing Shelves: Chasing Waves follows the author as she first learns to surf, the resulting obsession, and the surfing adventures that subsequently lead her around the world in search of great waves. This memoir reads more like a collection of short stories about her surfing adventures albeit, in chronological order than a cohesive narrative.

I wish there had been a little more about how surfing fit into or affected her regular life.

Instead, each chapter is only about the next surf expedition. Waeschle does Chasing Waves follows the author as she first learns to surf, the resulting obsession, and the surfing adventures that subsequently lead her around the world in search of great waves. Waeschle does a great job, though, of conveying both the awe and joy of surfing as well as the fear and imminent danger. Her story both made me want to surf and also made me never want to surf.

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Sep 05, Dylan Roadie rated it it was amazing. Related to the premise very much and it made me want to surf so bad! Jun 12, Carol rated it it was amazing.

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If you have trouble in selecting the right format you can check our Format Selection Guide. Amy Waeschle shares her globe-trotting adventures and chronicles her evolution from a nervous newbie to a self-confident and skillful surfer: Cramming into a hot bus near Playa Linda, Mexico, clutching a beat-up foam body board. Quivering, blue-lipped, on a rocky beach after a session in Vancouver Island's icy swells. Braving explosions of ocean spray and hanging out with ski bums in Fiji. Discovering small villages and the essence of ''pura vida'' in Costa Rica.