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Most of the pieces in a Tiffany lamp need to be quite small to conform to the rounded mold. Thats why this type of shade, by its nature, has a considerable number of pieces. Most popular designs have about pieces, although some require nearly Obviously, another difference between Tiffany lamps and most windows is the amount of time required to complete the project.

These lamps can be time consuming. The only supplies you need to get started on your first Tiffany style lampshade are a mold, a pattern and some glass.

Tiffany Lamps: You Can Do It!

As far as tools go, all you need are your basic glass working tools cutter, pliers , soldering iron and, hopefully, a grinder. No special or unusual tools are needed. There are several different types of lamp molds available. The most common are the H. Wordens styrofoam forms either in sections or full forms and Odysseys fiberglass molds full molds only.

Stained Glass Lampshade Pattern Books - Anything in Stained Glass

Each type of mold has its advantages. The Worden System is less expensive and has many patterns available. Color photos illustrate the entire lamp-making process from cutting the pattern and selecting glass to assembling tiles and soldering a shade. The majority are medium size shades, many of which are suitable for either swag or lampbase applications.

The 25 lampshade patterns are for 8" to 21" diameter shades.

Styles include minis, inverted ceilings, wall sconces, and tables swags. Designs match certain windows in "Prairie Designs" book. Instructions included for enlarging to 14" and 16" shades. Full-size patterns for five lampshades and four hanging lanterns are included. Three of the designs allow you to make matching lamp and lantern sets.

Because the geometric designs consist of only straight lines, even the inexperienced crafter can successfully complete these projects. Detailed instructions and diagrams included to use one or 2 panels to make a candle holder. Designs include bamboo, Art Deco fish, Japanese doll, tropical bird and more. Wiring and assembly instructions included.

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  • Tiffany Lamps: You Can Do It! | Delphi Glass Blog.
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Detailed assembly instructions included. Themes include are florals, bamboo, geometric, pets, Celtic, landscapes, and more. Wiring kit available and sold separating. Color photographs and assembly instructions included. All shown in color pictures and include detailed fusing and assembly instructions and material lists.

These lamps can also be used as wall sconces with the purchase of a wall sconce mounting kit. Included are detailed instructions on how to modify the designs for molds of other dimensions. Choose from autumn leaves, clematis, dogwood, pansy, acorn, Roman shade, standard globe, poppy, daffodil, dragonfly, peony, or the 3-D golden lotus leaf. This tape will be used to hold the two ends together once the panels are pulled up into shape.

Once the tape is on, go around and trim any tape that is sticking out over the top and bottom. This may seem fussy, but I'm a fussy kind of person, and I find the excess tape often rolls under the lampshade and is difficult to get off. It also gets stuck on other things and is just a pain in the neck to deal with, so I trim it off. When the panels are taped you will pull the lampshade up into shape like this: Slide the middle and index fingers of your left hand under the two middle panels where they join at the top. Keep pulling the panels up until they are upright.

Using both hands, pull the two ends together and press down the three pieces of masking tape that you left sticking out over one end. Now turn the lampshade upside down. Don't worry, it won't fall apart. Turning it upside down makes it fall into shape naturally. You can measure the distance between opposite panels, from center of panel to center of panel, to make sure the distance is the same between each. On this lampshade, I measured between panels 1 and 5, 2 and 6, 3 and 7, 4 and 8.

If you find one or two measurements off, you can push the panels around a bit to square them up. Don't be afraid, it won't fall apart. It shouldn't be off much, if at all, as long as all of the panels are exactly the same size, and the pattern is correct. This is where the problems really start to loom up if accuracy has not been adhered to. Tack solder each panel together where they meet at the bottom. Make sure the solder is flat.

Don't leave big globs that will affect the levelness of the lampshade when it is turned over for the next step.

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Turn the lampshade over and tack solder on the top where each panel meets. If the lampshade sits flat on the table, without the wobbles, it is still "square". After you tack solder the top, and are sure the lamp is still "square", tack solder several spots along the middle of each seam. You should do this with the lamp sitting upright. Now you can pull the masking tape off.

Gently pull the tape off at a 45 degree angle to the foil. Solder a wire around the top of the lampshade. Use 18 gauge wire. Tin it first, if it isn't already pre-tinned. Center it on the edge of the top and slowly solder it in place. When soldering wire on a lampshade it is a slow methodical process. Bend the wire with needle nose pliers where it has to go around a bend. It helps to have another person helping, or you can hold the wire in place with wooden spring type clothes pins.

Put On The Vase Cap. Tin the vase cap. Go to Vase Cap Tutorial for a detailed description of how to tin a vase cap. Use a level to make sure the lampshade is level before soldering the vase cap in place. Actually, make sure the surface your lampshade is sitting on is level, before checking the lampshade. Place the vase cap on top of the lampshade. It should sit just at the outside edges of the top.

Use the level again, placing it right on the center of the vase cap. Move the cap around until it is level in all directions. Tack solder the vase cap in several places. This is tricky if you are doing it alone, but it can be done. Tack it where a solder seam joins the vase cap. The solder will probably drip and it may take a couple of tries to get it to stick, but persevere.

It will eventually stick, and remember, you only have to do it in 2 spots right now. Opposite sides are ideal, but any two places that are not next to each other will do. Once it is tacked in several places, you can now go around and tack it at each seam. If you have another person to hold the shade at an angle it is much easier to do, but the shade is now strong enough that you can tip it to make the area, you are soldering, parallel to the table. Lay the lampshade on it's side and solder the inside seams. Build up a nice bead on each seam, including all around the edges of the vase cap.

While the lampshade is in this position, tin the inside bottom edge. Find something to prop up the lampshade so you can solder the outside seams. For years I used a cardboard box filled with crumpled newspaper or a brick covered with a towel, along with assorted cans and bottles of varying heights to hold my lampshades while I soldered them. They all worked, but took a certain amount of maneuvering and a lot of prayer every time I had to turn the lamp to work on the next seam.

If this is your first lamp, use something you have around the house. If you are going to make a lot of lamps, I would highly recommend the Lamp Wedgie. Solder all of the outside seams and work each seam into the area where the vase cap is attached.

Tin the outside bottom edge. When the outside is finished, check the inside of the lampshade and fix up any solder blobs that might have run through. Sometimes this can become a bit of a "chase the solder" game. If it keeps running through from one side to the other, hold a wet but wrung out towel, right up tight, under the area you are soldering. The wet towel will keep the solder from running through and help it to set faster.

When you go to touch it up on the side the towel was on, do quick touches with the soldering iron, just enough to make the solder look nice, but not long enough to let it run through again. Turn the lampshade upside down and solder a tinned 18 gauge copper wire around the bottom, just like you did around the top in Step When the wire is completely soldered in place, build up a bead of solder over it.